This page contains questions that seem to come up frequently. We have provided answers that are direct and in-depth. See if you can find an answer to your question, or submit your own question at the bottom of this page.

Questions

1. Scraggly lines:
I have purchased my Flex-Fletch vanes and like them except some have “scraggly” lines in them. What caused that? Will that cause them to be lighter in grains than the ones that are smooth and don’t have those scraggly lines in them?

2. Adhesion:
I’m having trouble with adhesion to the shaft, can you help?

3. Price:
Why are Flex-Fletch Vanes more expensive than the other vanes?

4. Value:
Are they worth the cost?

5. FLP300 stabilization:
Will the FLP 300 vanes be enough to stabilize a 350 grain arrow with a 85 grain broadhead?

6. Whisker Biscuit
Have you tested your vanes thru the Whisker Biscuit? I was just wondering how they hold up.

7. Best Vane;
I keep hearing, this vane is the best or that vane is the best. My question is this; Are Flex-Fletch vanes really better and if so how/why?

8. Excess Glue
I just re-fletched my first arrows, there is some excess adhesive that dried along the vanes. Does this need to be cleaned off to ensure proper flight?

9. Vane Length
Does the length of the vane make the arrow shoot different? I shoot a 281/2 in arrow?

10. Vane Size
What size vane would be best for an ACE with overall length of 32 7/8 inches? I shoot recurve, 43# and use fingers?

11. Similar vanes, different manufacturers
Why do some of the top outdoor shooters, and why should I use your FFP187’s when there are other vane manufacturers that make a vane that looks just like it and they’re cheaper?

Answers

1. Scraggly lines answer:
Those ’scraggly’ lines are formed during the curing process and won’t change the performance of the vane in any way. As you may already know Flex-Fletch vanes are made with a thermal set resin that is unique to the archery vane industry. This process is what makes Flex-Fletch vanes the best in the business. After the material is introduced into the heated molds it begins a curing process. During this process the material may shrink a tiny amount. Some of our dyes are more susceptible to this shrinkage than others and some areas within the molds themselves are also more likely to do this. This shrinkage does not change the mass of the vane and therefore there is no difference in weight between a vane with the lines and one without.

2. Adhesion answer:
You may read our adhesion tips to see if you find an answer there. There are detailed instructions below. Flex-Fletch vanes are designed for stability and durability and are well suited for a strong bond to your arrow shaft by following a few simple rules.
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There are a few things to look at when having trouble getting vanes to stick. The main thing to remember is: If they’re not sticking, something is not cleaned properly. So, we will address this question then continue from there.

Analyze where the glue is adhering to when the vane comes off.
A. Glue sticking to the shaft means the vane needs the most attention.
B. Glue sticking to the vane means the shaft needs to be cleaned more thoroughly *. (See shaft manufacturer suggestions.)

If A. is true, then follow the step-by-step instructions to properly clean & prepare vanes to accept adhesive.

1. Start with a clean cotton cloth. Here is what I mean by a clean cotton cloth. Washed in the washer with a good quality detergent. NO FABRIC SOFTENER. Fabric softener leaves a residue in the cloth that transfers to the vane base when the solvent is applied. Next you can dry in the dryer but do not use a bounce or similar dryer sheet. This also leaves residue in the cloth. Don’t use Q-Tips or paper towels. Both of these have in them what they refer to as ‘sizing’. This is what keeps the cotton on the end of the Q-Tip and also keeps the paper towel stiff and keeps the plys together.
2. The vane should be in the fletching jig for easier handling.
3. Wrap cloth around finger. A rubber glove or just the tip of one may be a good idea to protect your skin from contact with the solvent.
4. Apply a small amount of solvent to the cloth. Just enough so the cloth is saturated but does not drip. Acceptable solvents include: Acetone, Lacquer thinner, Isopropyl Alcohol (at least 97% pure) and denatured alcohol. Don’t use rubbing alcohol.
5. Clean each vane before you use it. A freshly cleaned vane has the pores of the plastic open and will accept adhesive more readily.
6. Wipe vane from one end to the other. Then, rotating your finger slightly and using an unused part of the cloth, wipe in the opposite direction. There should be no reason to rub more than this. There is one school of thought that says to rub the vane until the color begins to come off on the cloth. You may try this if you wish but only if you don’t get the results you are looking for. The idea is to get the job done and not spend more time than necessary.
7. Assuming you have the shaft prepared according to the manufacturers suggestions run a thin bead of glue down the length of the vane. Be careful not to use too much glue. More glue does not necessarily mean a better bond. Put the vane to the shaft and you are done. Wait 15 minutes or so before removing the clamp.

*To speed up drying time you can try this little trick;

After you’ve put the vane in place, lift it back up and blow on it for about 5 to 10 seconds, then put it back down again. This allows some of the solvent in the glue to begin evaporating and more air molecules to mingle with the adhesive. This will not effect its final grip. With this method you can take the clamp off in about 5 minutes. Or less once you get the hang of it. You’ll find straight fletch is more accepting to this technique but it works well with both.
* We are only able to address vane adhesion questions here the shaft must be dealt with from the manufacturer. Since there are many manufacturers of arrow shafts, consult the manufacturer of the shaft if the glue is sticking to the vane and not the shaft. There are a few links provided at the bottom of the page for your convenience.

3. Price answer:
To use the old adage “You get what you pay for”. This really is true here. Flex-Fletch Vanes are produced using a process involving thermal set resins. Other vanes use a thermal plastic extrusion process that inherently uses an inferior type of plastic, and allows quick, mass production. As I’m sure you know, quick and fast is never the best way to accomplish anything. Flex-Fletch vanes take much longer to process. The strips are molded, and require time to set and cure. The curing process takes 8 hours in itself.

4. Value answer: Is it worth the cost?
Definitely. The benefits of using Flex-Fletch vanes will be evident the first time you shoot.

5. FLP stabilization answer: Will the FLP 300 vanes be enough to stabilize a 350-grain arrow with an 85-grain broadhead?

The answer to this is complicated. The FLP300 is designed as a 3D competition vane but has been used by many to guide their hunting arrows. If you are fussy about your set-up and tune your bow well I am sure you can get your arrows to fly right with the FLP300’s. With that said the only real way to find out is to try it. Remember everyone is unique, what works for one may not work for another. Final word… I’d say the FLP300 is about as small as one should go for hunting arrows. In the field, the unexpected is unwelcome.

6. I personally have not tested flex-fletch vanes through the whisker biscuit but the general consensus is that they are the best for such an application. Flex-Fletch vanes are the most durable vanes on the market. That is not a boast it is a fact. How can I say that Flex-Fletch Vanes are the most durable if I haven’t tested them you ask? Easy. It is a simple matter of plastics. The plastic and process we use at Flex-Fletch is superior to the others. Period.

7. Of course every manufacturer wants you to believe their vane is the best, that’s part of marketing a product and, since anyone can say they are the best, it can get confusing at times.
As I’ve mentioned in some of the above answers, the matter comes down to superior plastic. Our process is very involved and time consuming. Our plastic is not extruded, this is very important. Ours is a polyurethane that is custom compounded by Flex-Fletch. Our process makes use of thermo set resins in a heat cured environment. After the initial introduction of the material into the molds, the material is allowed to cure for a while before being removed from the molds and placed in an oven for a minimum of 8 hours final cure time. The result is an incredibly tough, memory resilient finished product. Check back here soon for our independent lab test results of all vanes.

8. The short answer to your question is no, the excess glue does not need to be removed for proper flight. But, taking into account the physics of arrow flight it can’t hurt either, as long as care is taken not to compromise the integrity of the bond between shaft and vane. If you don’t want to have anything to blame if you miss a shot you can always remove it.

9. The length of the vane most certainly does create differences in how an arrow shoots. Some other factors are Height, Weight, and the position on the shaft. Please read this article about the flight of an arrow. The Mechanics of Arrow Flight.

Things to consider: Is the arrow going to be used for hunting? Is it equipped with a broadhead? Field point?
There is far to much to write in this forum, but if you still have questions after reading the article I will be happy to answer any questions you may still have.

10. I’m sorry I would need more information to answer your question. Please email us back with: Type of archery, ie; target, indoor, outdoor, hunting, shaft spine etc. There are just too many variables.

11. Why use FFP187?
The answer is quite simple. You summed it up in the last two words of your question. They’re cheaper.
The difference is the plastic. There is no other manufacturer that makes a vane combining all the benefits of a flex-fletch vane. #7 has more info