| FAQ |
| This
page contains questions that seem to come up frequently. We have provided answers that are
direct and in-depth. See if you can find an answer to your question, or submit your own
question at the bottom of this page.
|
| Questions |
| 1.
Scraggly lines: I have purchased my
Flex-Fletch vanes and like them except some have "scraggly" lines in them. What
caused that? Will that cause them to be lighter in grains than the ones that are smooth
and don't have those scraggly lines in them? |
| 2.
Adhesion: I'm having trouble with adhesion
to the shaft, can you help? |
| 3.
Price: Why are Flex-Fletch Vanes more expensive
than the other vanes? |
| 4.
Value: Are they worth the cost? |
| 5.
FLP300 stabilization: Will the FLP 300 vanes
be enough to stabilize a 350 grain arrow with a 85 grain broadhead? |
| 6.
Have you tested your vanes thru
the Whisker Biscuit? I was just wondering how they hold up. |
| 7.
I keep hearing; this vane is the best or that vane is the best.
My question is this; Are Flex-Fletch vanes really better and if so how/why? |
| 8.
I just re-fletched my first arrows, there is some excess
adhesive
that dried along the vanes. Does this need to be cleaned off to ensure proper
flight? |
| 9.
Does the length of the vane make the arrow shoot
different? I shoot a 281/2 in arrow. |
| 10.
Which size vane
would be best for an ACE with overall length of 32 7/8 inches? I shoot recurve, 43# and
use
fingers. |
| 11.
Why do some of
the top outdoor shooters, and why should I use your FFP187's when there are
other vane manufacturers that make a vane that looks just like it and
they're cheaper? |
| Answers |
1.
Scraggly lines answer:
Those 'scraggly' lines
are formed during the curing process and won't change the performance of the
vane in any way. As you may already know Flex-Fletch vanes are made with a
thermal set resin that is unique to the archery vane industry. This process
is what makes Flex-Fletch vanes the best in the business. After the material
is introduced into the heated molds it begins a curing process. During this
process the material may shrink a tiny amount. Some of our dyes are more
susceptible to this shrinkage than others and some areas within the molds
themselves are also more likely to do this. This shrinkage does not change
the mass of the vane and therefore there is no difference in weight between
a vane with the lines and one without.
Back to Top
|
|
adhesion tips 2.
Adhesion answer:
You may read our
adhesion tips
to see if you find an
answer there. There are detailed instructions below. Flex-Fletch vanes are
designed for stability and durability and are well suited for a strong bond
to your arrow shaft by following a few simple rules.
----
There are a few things to look at when having trouble getting vanes to
stick. The main thing to remember is: If they’re not sticking, something is
not cleaned properly. So, we will address this question then continue from
there.
Analyze where the glue is adhering to when the vane comes off.
A. Glue sticking to the shaft means the vane needs the most attention.
B. Glue sticking to the vane means the shaft needs to be cleaned more
thoroughly *. (See shaft manufacturer suggestions.)
If A. is true, then follow the step-by-step instructions to properly clean &
prepare vanes to accept adhesive.
1. Start with a clean
cotton cloth. Here is what I mean by a clean cotton cloth. Washed in the
washer with a good quality detergent. NO FABRIC SOFTENER. Fabric softener
leaves a residue in the cloth that transfers to the vane base when the
solvent is applied. Next you can dry in the dryer but do not use a bounce or
similar dryer sheet. This also leaves residue in the cloth. Don’t use Q-Tips
or paper towels. Both of these have in them what they refer to as ‘sizing’.
This is what keeps the cotton on the end of the Q-Tip and also keeps the
paper towel stiff and keeps the plys together.
2. The vane should be in the fletching jig for easier handling.
3. Wrap cloth around finger. A rubber glove or just the tip of one may be a
good idea to protect your skin from contact with the solvent.
4. Apply a small amount of solvent to the cloth. Just enough so the cloth is
saturated but does not drip. Acceptable solvents include: Acetone, Lacquer
thinner, Isopropyl Alcohol (at least 97% pure) and denatured alcohol. Don’t
use rubbing alcohol.
5. Clean each vane before you use it. A freshly cleaned vane has the pores
of the plastic open and will accept adhesive more readily.
6. Wipe vane from one end to the other. Then, rotating your finger slightly
and using an unused part of the cloth, wipe in the opposite direction. There
should be no reason to rub more than this. There is one school of thought
that says to rub the vane until the color begins to come off on the cloth.
You may try this if you wish but only if you don’t get the results you are
looking for. The idea is to get the job done and not spend more time than
necessary.
7. Assuming you have the shaft prepared according to the manufacturers
suggestions run a thin bead of glue down the length of the vane. Be careful
not to use too much glue. More glue does not necessarily mean a better bond.
Put the vane to the shaft and you are done. Wait 15 minutes or so before
removing the clamp.
*To speed up drying time you can try
this little trick;
After you’ve put the vane in place, lift it back up and blow on it for about 5 to 10
seconds, then put it back down again. This allows some of the solvent in the glue to begin
evaporating and more air molecules to mingle with the adhesive. This will not effect its
final grip. With this method you can take the clamp off in about 5 minutes. Or less once
you get the hang of it. You'll find straight fletch is more accepting to this technique
but it works well with both.
Back to Top
|
* We are only
able to address vane adhesion questions here the shaft must be dealt with from the
manufacturer. Since there are many manufacturers of arrow shafts, consult the manufacturer
of the shaft if the glue is sticking to the vane and not the shaft. There are a few links
provided at the bottom of the page for your convenience.
Back to Top
|
3.
Price
answer:
To use the old adage
"You get what you pay for". This really is true here. Flex-Fletch
Vanes are produced using a process involving thermal set resins. Other vanes use a
thermal plastic extrusion process that inherently uses an inferior type of plastic, and
allows quick, mass production. As I'm sure you know, quick and fast is never the best way
to accomplish anything. Flex-Fletch vanes take much longer to process. The strips
are molded, and require time to set and cure. The curing process takes 8 hours in itself.
Back to Top
|
4.
Value answer: Is
it worth the cost?
Definitely. The benefits of using Flex-Fletch vanes will be evident
the first time you shoot.
Back to Top
|
5.
FLP stabilization answer: Will the FLP 300 vanes be enough to stabilize a 350-grain
arrow with an 85-grain broadhead?
The answer to this is complicated. The FLP300 is designed as a 3D competition vane but has
been used by many to guide their hunting arrows. If you are fussy about your set-up and
tune your bow well I am sure you can get your arrows to fly right with the FLP300's. With
that said the only real way to find out is to try it. Remember everyone is unique, what
works for one may not work for another. Final word... I'd say the FLP300 is about as small
as one should go for hunting arrows. In the field, the unexpected is unwelcome.
Back to Top
|
6. I personally have not tested flex-fletch vanes through
the whisker biscuit but the general consensus is that they are the best for such an
application. Flex-Fletch vanes are the most durable vanes on the market. That
is not a boast it is a fact. How can I say that Flex-Fletch Vanes are the most
durable if I haven't tested them you ask? Easy. It is a simple matter of
plastics. The plastic and process we use at Flex-Fletch is superior to the others.
Period.
Back to Top
|
7. Of
course every manufacturer wants you to believe their vane is the best, that's part of
marketing a product and, since anyone can say they are the best, it can get confusing at
times.
As I've mentioned in some of the above answers, the matter comes down to superior plastic.
Our process is very involved and time consuming. Our plastic is not
extruded,
this is very important. Ours is a
polyurethane that is
custom compounded by Flex-Fletch. Our process makes use of thermo set resins in a
heat cured environment. After the initial introduction of the material into the
molds, the material is allowed to cure for a while before being removed from the molds
and placed in an oven for a minimum of 8 hours final cure time. The result is an
incredibly tough, memory resilient finished product. Check back here soon for our
independent lab test results of all vanes.
Back to Top |
8. The
short answer to your question is no, the excess glue does not need to be removed for
proper flight. But, taking into account the physics of arrow flight it can't hurt
either, as long as care is taken not to compromise the integrity of the bond between shaft
and vane. If you don't want to have anything to blame if you miss a shot you can
always remove it.
Back to Top |
9. The length of the vane most certainly does create
differences in how an arrow shoots. Some other factors are Height, Weight, and the
position on the shaft. Please read this article about the flight of an arrow.
The Mechanics of Arrow Flight.
Things to consider: Is the arrow going to be used for hunting? Is it equipped with a
broadhead? Field point?
There is far to much to write in this forum, but if you still have questions after reading
the article I will be happy to answer any questions you may still have.
Back to Top |
10.
I'm sorry I would need more information to answer
your question. Please email us back with: Type of archery, ie; target,
indoor, outdoor, hunting, shaft spine etc. There are just too many
variables.
Back to Top |
11.
Why use FFP187?
The answer is quite simple. You summed it up in the last two words of
your question. They're cheaper.
The difference is the plastic. There is no other manufacturer that
makes a vane combining all the benefits of a flex-fletch vane.
#7 has more info
Back to Top |
|
| Arrow manufacturers
websites |
Easton
Carbon Tech
|
| Ask a question |
| Can't find the
answer? Let us know so we can help. |
|
|
|
Back to Top |
